I am fortunate that God has given me the strength and also plenty of material facilities at the moment that I am able to visit so many temples and I am also glad about it.  Of course, there is a selfish motive even behind this.  I am (and my sister as well) of the opinion that we may not be in a position to travel so much after the age of 50 or so (unlike our parents who are still in a position to travel to temples) especially given the fact that we are all taking so much of tension, pressure, anxiety etc at this age.  Also, as rightly said by Kulasekara Azhwar in his Mukunda Malai -  "Prana Prayana Samaye Kaba Vadha Pithai, Kanda Varodana Vidow Smaranam Kudaste" meaning that I may not be able to think of Narayanan at old age when I may be down with health problems and so I am trying to accumulate my account now itself  - I am also trying to make the best while it is possible physically.  Let me hope that the Great Narayanan gives me strength to serve at least at one place of his Abode after my retirement.

Well this is for the trip to Sirkazhi, Thirunangur divya desams and Thalaichangadu.
This was also a successful trip as all of us were fit for a good travel especially two persons above 60 (your Father and my Father at 73) and also Rangachari mama (who is also above 60).

We went to
Sirkazhi - Seerama Vinnagaram
Thiruvellakulam - Annan Koil
Thirunangur - Thiruvanpurushotthamam, Vaikuntha Vinnagaram, and Arimeya
Vinnagaram (Kudamadum Kootthan)
Thiruthevanar Thogai - Madhava Perumal
Thiruvali and Thirunagari
Thalaichangadu (upto this in the morning and at the noon at Thalaichangadu for Thirumanjanam)
Srimushnam and Chidambaram (Thiruchitra Koodam)
(Totally 11 temples + Natarajar temple + Srimushnam Utsavar at Ramavaram village)

I had made arrangements through the information I got from the website of Mr.Venkat (from the PDf file explaining his friend Mr. Ananth's visit to the southern temples in 16 days ? this is a very useful guide to anyone going on long travel for this purpose), from someone staying in Thirunagari for the  car for the whole day and also for our morning bathing arrangements etc.   (Maybe if it is possible they can correct one thing in this file ? for reference in Thirunagari he had given the name of Mr. Pappunni Swami - unfortunately this  man is no more; eventhough the phone number remains the same; now his brother  and his nephew Mr. Geethachariar are having this telephone No. and they were also very helpful in arranging accommodation for us in Sirkazhi and also for the car).

One very good thing about Sirkazhi is that there are plenty of autos and  taxis available at the station itself and one can hire them for the whole day bargaining a little bit and go around to all temples and return to the station in the night to take a return train.

We left by Thanjavur passenger on Friday 21 Feb and reached on Saturday 22 morning at about 6.00 am.  The driver was waiting for us at the station.  He took us from the station to the residence of Badri Bhattachariyar of  Sirkazhi temple (with whom arrangements were already made by Mr. Geethachariar) (Badri Bhattachariyar’s address is No.6 Thadalan South Madastreet, Sirkazhi – 609110, Nagapattinam District; Telephone- 04364 70207)(His wife mentioned that they are willing to extend this type of help whoever happens to visit the temples).  They have a decent house near the temple and they have even hot water arrangements.  We got prepared comfortably and went to the temple. We had very good darshan in the temple.  Badri Bhattar is a young person and explains everything in the temple in a very nice way.  We had darshan of Thayyar and I think that this temple is in relatively better condition and there is some income also, the alangaram for Moolavar and Thayyar was very good and they had even lots of flowers.  He mentioned that recently a foreigner, who was cured of his health problems after visiting this temple a few times, had offered to help the temple in someway and they had asked for a nandavanam to be built and he has spent Rs.1 lakh to do a nice and very well laid out nandavanam inside the temple premises.  This is really a good news.

After this we had morning tiffin in a Brahmin mess which is just outside the temple.  Everything here was so good and they were maintaining the place in a very neat way that one feels like visiting the place again.

After this we went first to Thiruvellakulam ? Annan Kovil temple which is at a distance of 9 kms from Sirkazhi temple. This temple is better than any other temples we had seen in Thirunangur. Bhattar was saying that eventhough the temple was not in that bad shape, the income is not sufficient for the Nithya Aradanai kaimkaryams and they are just trying to manage things somehow or other.

They have a person for Madapalli also but that day he had not come to the temple and so the bhattar was making the food for the neivedyam and so he was busy. There were two other groups of people who came at the sametime when we were there and so we realized that atleast some people are visiting the temple. This is rather a good news.

After this we went to Thirunangur Thiruvanpuroshathamam.  Here bhattachariar  was available.  Luckily he is the bhattachariyar for one more temple in  Thirunangur ? Vaikuntha Vinnagaram and also for the Madhavan Temple in Thiruthevanar Thogai in Keezhachalai.  These temples are not in any good shape.  The bhattar was more than happy to receive four of us that day.  But while we were there some more people also came in.  So that is a good news for these temples.  After this the Bhattar came with us to the Thiruthevanar thogai temple where renovation work is going on in a major scale.  (I have a feeling that I saw a direction board maintained by –maybe- Muralidhar Swamigal group). So the moolavar and utsavar are all kept in outside rooms and we had good darshan here also. The group whom we met in Annan Koil came to this temple first and returning as the temple was closed  without having darshan, but luckily we saw them on the way and our driver was wise enough to horn for the other driver to inform him that we are going with the bhattar to the temple and so they also came and had darshan and were very happy.

They had come in a jeep and were about 12 people in the group.  So any bhattar in these temples would be more than pleased to have so many people at the sametime.  The Moolavar and the Sridevi Bhoodevi are so big that even to drape the dhoti and saree takes a long time. I gave vastrams here as well and the bhattar was very happy but he mentioned that he will use it on the important days for the moolavar as he does not get new vastrams for some special occasions. We all agreed to this.
After this the bhattar took us back to Thirunangur  Vaikuntha vinnagaram temple. This temple also practically has no income and is in comparatively bad shape. But the bhattar does a good job of running around to take people from one temple to the other and making them have darshans.

This bhattar eventhough he is looking after three temples seems to be a very active person and explained very well everything. He seems to be a contended person. (I think we human beings crave for more money and material things when we get money, but those who are in poverty do not think much about money at all.) He even mentioned that the temple Thiruvanpurushothaman gets enough of rice now for the nithya aradanai and he is very happy that awareness amongst people is growing and more and more people have started visiting the temples in these remote areas also. He also said that the temples have some income these days and all are in much better condition compared to what they were 2 or 3 years ago when there was practically nothing available for Neivedyam everyday.

He even mentioned that he has little varumanam also and that he is contended and happy that he has at least this now. Is it not very rare to see someone who is in this position to be really contended for what he has?

After this we went to the nearby Arimeya Vinnagaram - Kudamadum Koothan temple. This temple is in very bad shape and is in need of urgent help (e enthough Muralidhar Swamigal group had done the Samprokshnam in 1998).Unfortunately, I had given all the vastrams in the other three temples that I did not have anything to offer to this perumal and I felt sorry about this. Maybe the perumal heard my sincere repentance and the bhattar himself asked for some help for the temple.  He asked if it is possible to get a small table for the Thayyar sannidhi as there is nothing there to keep the aradanai thattu and manjal and kumkumam pezhai and all that.  Even the vastrams on the perumal and Thayyar were looking very old and there were not enough of things there for Aradanam.  It seems there is a change of bhattar recently and the new one is taking active part in the improvements of the temple in whatever way he can and asks the devotees visiting the temple to help in whatever way they can. Of course, even for Perumal people do not give anything without being asked for (how unfortunate it is). The bhattar informed us that he had asked a carpenter about the cost of the table and said that it will be about Rs.150 and whether we could afford to give this. My God, I could not say even a single word and simply gave the money.  I am unable to understand the divine balances especially temples like Tirupati are in so rich shape and these temples do not have anything for the Nithya Aradanai even.  Even in this condition he was kind enough to tell us that there was a Thirumanjanam going on in the Semponsei Koil that day which is very nearby and that we can go there and have lots of prasadams.  But however we did not have time to go there as I wanted to make a courtesy visit to Mr. Geethachariar at Thirunagari after going to the temple there.

So at about 11.00 am we reached Thiruvali Narasimhar temple and that day being Swathi Nakshathiram there was considerable crowd and there was Thirumanjanam done for Perumal that day. We gave money for one day aradanai in a year and also for the VeduPari Utsavam of Thirumangai Alwar for which they were collecting the funds.  It is a very good temple and eventhough not in very bad shape they all say that they find it difficult to do the everyday Aradanam for the perumal and that somehow or the other, someone or the other comes forward to do the utsavams for the perumal on the specified dates. We could not spend much time in this temple as we had to really rush. This temple is one of the most beautiful ones and next time when you go on your visit do not miss this temple. Thiruvali is one of the five Narasimhar perumals worshipped by Thirumangai Azhwar.

After this we reached Thirunagari around 11.30 and the temple was closed.  We felt very bad as we could not have darshan.  But to our luck, there were a group of 3-4 people who had come before us and also could not have darshan and had asked someone to bring the Bhattar to open the temple.  I did not like this idea as I think that we should not disturb the Perumal once the temple is closed and that too for our own selfish purposes.  The driver of our car went to look for Mr. Geethachariar and eventually his father came along to see us along with the Bhattachariar and he opened the temple. So we had the darshan here as well. This perumal-Vedarajan -Kalyana Ranganathar is really huge and so also his Thayar. Here there is a separate beautiful sannidhi for Thirumangai Azhwar where they still have the idol which he worshipped Sindanaikku Iniyan. This temple is also a big temple and Mr.Geethachariar's father told us that the temple gets around 350 rice bags in a year with which they are trying to manage the affairs of the temple. He said that when he was young the temple used to receive 1500 bags of rice in a year and this has drastically comedown over a period of 40 years.  While leaving when I offered him some money for all the help they had extended to us like making telephone calls to arrange for the car and to do arrangements in Sirkazhi, he refused to take it and said that he would only be happy if I am able to do something for the Azhwar when he asks me next time. I have to write a thanking letter to them as I could not meet Mr. Geethachariar that day as he had gone to the school that time.

From Thirunagari we went to Thalaichangadu via Kuraiyalur (birth place of Thirumangai Azhwar-but we could not go to the temple), Mangaimadam and Thiruvengadu. Thalaichangadu temple is in a totally remote place and there is noone living around the temple. It is totally in the middle of the fields. The temple looks better as the Parakalan Kaimkarya Sabha had done renovations recently. Dr.Rangachari, President of the Sabha had come all the way from Chidambaram to Thalaichangadu (about 37 kms in three buses) to oversee that day Thirumanjanam and as Ramadurai mama had tied up with him already to handover the money and the other things we had taken for the temple. Mr. Thiruvengadam, who belongs to Thirumangai Azhwar lineage,being the secretary for this temple kaimkaryams done by the Parakalan Sabha, was also there to take the responsibility of the things.  The Executive Officer (who is also the EO for the temple in Thirunagari) was there.  They had brought two others from Thirunagari temple to assist the Bhattar here (he is very old-I think 93 years, and it must be extremely difficult for him to do Thirumanjanam all alone).  Atleast that time there were lot of people in the temple who had watched the Thirumanjanam.  We were late for the Thirumanjanam and by the time we reached as it was well past 12 o'clock and they had finished the Thirumanjanam as this cannot be done after Uchikalam. I could understand this and apologized for our delay in reaching the temple. All of them were very happy to see that someone takes the pain to do something for these remote temples also.  I felt very embarrassed.  The temple is a small one and there are plenty of coconut trees inside the temple.  The temple is in the middle of fertile land and there is plenty of water.  There were lots of Pushani kodi inside the temple and there were lots of Pumpkins also.  I gave all the vastrams and the Vattils which I had bought for the temple and they gave us receipts for receiving the same.  They had made elaborate poojai and archanai after  draping on the new vastrams on the deities.  Unfortunately, I took only two sarees for the Sridevi and Bhoodevi, but I did not know that there is a separate Thayar sannadhi also and so I did not have a new saree for Thayar, next time I will make up for this when I go there. I have taken video of the poojai done here and I will send the same to you as soon as possible. They had made even arrangements for our lunch alongwith the prasadam in the temple itself as there is nothing available nearby this place. The Bhattachariar of this temple- 92/94 years old is really active and enthusiastic in doing the performance for the Perumal that I was thinking that somehow somewhere Perumal creates someone to take care of His temple in a good way This is another wonder in this material world. I gave him Rs.300 and he was very happy. Finally when we were all about to leave he came to me and said "Amma, I have one extra new Veshti from what you had brought after using for all the deities and can I take it for my personal use?"  I was so much taken aback.  In our enthusiasm to do things for the temple and perumal we rather forget about their adiyars who are doing kaimkaryams to that perumal ? how can he do a good service when he is himself not in a position to have proper good clothing.  I was also surprised at his honesty in coming and telling me this and asking for my permission and felt so little of myself that I did not bring anything for him especially taking into account his age and the really devoted service he does to the Lord there.

From Sirkazhi, Thirunagari is at about a distance of 8-9 kms and Thalaichangadu is at about a distance of 17 kms from Thirunagari exactly.  It took us about 25 to 30 minutes to reach the temple from Thirunagari – by car.  As a matter of fact, one can cover all the temples in and around Thirunangur, Sirkazhi and Thalaichangadu in one day if they travel by car or auto and is also lucky enough to have the Bhattar available at the temple.  As we had planned to go to Srimushnam and Chidambaram in the afternoon part, we could visit only 6 temples in and around Thirunangur including Thiruvali and Thirunagari.
After having lunch-prasadam here in the temple itself we went to Chidambaram and Dr. Rangachari took us to his residence and gave us all a good coffee at his place.  He is with his daughter and her husband and three children.  It seems his wife is no more. He seems to be very popular in Chidambaram as he is in the board of trustees for the Chidambaram temple. He is a Ph.D. in Economics and is a retired Professor of Annamalai University and is still serving them on extension of service after retirement.  The devotion with which he is doing all these kaimkaryams at the age of 64/65 is something commendable.  Especially his knowledge on the religious side also extremely high and I am surprised that he has not made any attempts to issue a cassette of what all he knows about Natha Munigal, Alavandhar and their paramparai and also about the Thiruchithira Koodam Govindarajan perumal.  We strongly suggested him to think of issuing a cassette on all this and I hope he does the same. After refreshing a bit at his residence, we started for our trip to Srimushnam. Rangachari mama offered to accompany us to Srimushnam Bhoovaraghavan Swamy temple.

Luckily we had Dr. Rangachari with us who could find out the exact place where the Utsavar was at that time. This Utsavar is someone really special as he goes on the day of Masi Magam for Theerthavari to the seashore and goes around all the villages and stays there overnight on his way back to Srimushnam. It seems at one of the villages His whole purappadu is taken over by the local Muslims of the village as there is a very long story behind this. You must read the article in Hindu. At an age where we have so much of problems it is surprising to note that a Perumal purappadu is taken over by the Muslims and the mariyadhai from the perumal is sent for one of the Muslim gentleman who had given a huge property for the temple. Somehow we managed to locate the Ramavaram village - thanks to Rangachari mama without him this would not have been possible. The picture of the Utsavar I had sent you already and this is one of the most beautiful utsavar with a lovely smiling face. To visit this utsavar we had to take a deviation of about 5-6 kms from the main road and so we had to make another 5-6 kms to catch the main road to go to Srimushnam. This place is at about 40 kms from Chidambaram and the whole travel made us feel as if we weredriving for more than 200 kms up and down. The roads are really in very bad shape and I am surprised at the strength which Father has to undertake this journey. Of course we must appreciate Ramadurai and Rangachari mamas for their enthusiasm in accompanying us for this trip.

Srimushnam temple has the biggest temple-tower I have seen so far and also the smallest Moolavar vigraham of Bhoovaraghavan Swamy. The temple looks so beautiful and pretty well maintained as they are under the Ahobila Mutt. There is small Ramar temple outside and I took video here. I will send you all of them together whenever possible. They were almost closing the moolavar sannidhi and only on seeing Rangachari mama with us they stayed and allowed us to have darshan there. We had a good darshan of Thayar Sannidhi also.

After this we returned to Chidambaram and I had to visit a one of my friend's (who is here in Geneva working with me in UNECE) parents who are in Chidambaram and they were very eagerly looking forward to meet me. We were in his house only for 10 minutes as it was already 9.00 pm and we had to visit the temples in Chidambaram also. My friend's father was so much surprised to see me along with Rangachari mama and mentioned that he need not take care of me in Chidambaram especially as we were already going with Rangachari mama. After this we went to the temple complex - this is one of those few places where Sivan and Thirumal have the temples in the same premises and more so in this place especially Perumal is in his Sayana kolam watching and enjoying the dance of Thillai Natarajar. Rangachari mama had arranged for a Dikshitar to take us around the darshan of Natarajar and Sivagami ammai. One thing commendable about this place is that they are taking very good care of the temple and the way they do the rakkala purappadu just before closing the temple of Natarajar is something to be watched.   It is a very grand spectacular event of the day.

After this we went to have the darshan of Govindarajan perumal nearby.  This is one more huge sayana kolam of perumal with seven heads of the Adiseshan (even in Srirangam Adiseshan has only five heads) and the moolavar is so beautiful and of Saligrama vigraham that he does not require thaila kappu everyday.

Rangachari mama is one of the Trustee members of this temple and so we had special darshan here. He even showed us one of the special Golden kavasams offered to the utsavar by a lady doctor from USA.  This weighs so heavy and we were all fortunate to touch the aparanam of perumal.   Certain things are really surprising in life.  Just as a caution, I had bought two Thirumans for Thalaichangadu perumal – one big and one small as I did not know the exact size of Thiruman for Him.  We found that the smaller is enough for His structure and so I took back the bigger one.  Rangachari mama asked me whether I can offer this to Sri Venugopalan in Chidambaram as His Thiruman has worn out very much.  I did not plan for this but somehow Venugopalan seems to have asked for it through mama.  So I gave it there and because I had to go out to the car for this purpose, I could have the glimpse of the Natarajar’s grand purappadu.

After this we went again to Ranagachari mama's house and had uppuma for the dinner and it was already 10.30 pm.  So we had to rush to the station to catch our train at 11.05 pm. The warmth, kindness and courtesy extended to us by this family is something unforgettable

This was a remarkable day and so many visits to so many temples and with good people like Ramadurai mama and Rangachari mama and so much of gathering knowledge about Nathamuni, Alavandar, Kulasekara Azhwar and so much about Vaishnavism.

We all knew only one thing that we got into the train around 11.15 or 11.20 and were dead tired that we slept like a log and we got up only when the train reached Tambaram station next day morning.

Some further thoughts:

More than any other temple, in my opinion the temples in Thirunangur (especially the three I happened to have visited) are in very bad shape -  Arimeya Vinnagaram (Kudamadum Koothan) and Thiruthevanar Thogai (Keezha Chalai) (Renovation is going on here on a major scale).  These two temples certainly need urgent financial help.  In arimeya Vinnagaram even the basic things are not available (like a small table at Thayar Sannidhi for which we made some arrangements)

Thiruvali and Thirunagari temples are also in need of help but they are not in as bad a shape as the above two of Thirunangur.  They had also asked for help. The EO of Thalaichangadu temple is the EO for Thiruvali and Thirunagari temples as well and he and another Bhattar Alin Adan from Thirunagari mentioned that they are getting only one tin of oil for Thirunagari whereas they need minimum two per month and also that they receive a bill of Rs.4000 on an average towards electricity charges for two months and they find it difficult to pay the same as there is barely any income in the temples.  In Thiruvali temple both I and my sister paid for Nithya Aradanai and also for the Vedupari Utsavam of Thirumangai Azhwar.  I managed to hire the car through one Mr. Geethachariar of Thirunagari and they also belong to the "First Theertham" family at Thirunagari temple and through his Father I came to know that they will need help for Azhwar Thirunatkal when the important festivals are held (rather he refused to take the money for all the help they had extended to me over the phone and said that he will be glad if I can do something for Kalyana Ranganathar and Azhwar).

I know that Muralidhar Swamigal is active in Thirunangur area and has already done samprokshnam for 6 of the temples here – yet they all need so much especially for Nithya Aradanai.  Also we can think of supporting the Veda Pada Salai schemes in someway. One more mention should be made that this group has made a good work of providing direction boards for all the temples in and around Thirunangur.

Written by Smt Subashini Narasimhan.